![]() Paris, early years of 1900. The Vélodrome d'Hiver. |
Paris, early years of 1900. The velodrome of the Parc des Princes. |
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Hemingway at the velodrome
I have started many stories about bicycle racing but have never written one
that is as good as the races are both on the indoor and outdoor tracks and
on the roads.
But I will get the Vélodrome d'Hiver with the smoky light of
the afternoon and the high-banked wooden track and the whirring sound the tires
made on the wood as the riders passed, the effort and the tactics as the
riders climber and plunged, each one a part of his machine; I will get the
magic of the demi-fond, the noise of the motors with their rollers set out
behind them that the entraîneurs rode, wearing their heavy crash helmets and
leaning backward in their ponderous leather suits, to shelter the riders who followed
them from the air resistance, the riders in their lighter crash helmets bent low
over their handlebars their legs turning the huge gear sprockets and the small front
wheels touching the roller behind the machine that gave them shelter to ride in,
and the duels that were more exciting than anything, the put-puting
of the motorcycles and the riders elbow to elbow and wheel to wheel up and down and around
at deadly speed until one man could not hold the pace and broke away and the solid
wall of air that he had been sheltered against hit him.
There were so many kinds of racing. The straight prints raced in heats or in match
races where the two riders would balance for long seconds on their machines for
the advantage of making the other rider take the lead and then the slow
circling and the final plunge into the driving purity of speed.
There were the programs of the team races of two hours, with a series of pure
sprints in their heats to fill the afternoon, the lonely absolute speed
events of one man racing an hour against the clock, the terribly dangerous
and beautiful races of one hundred kilometers on the big banked wooden five
hundred-meter bowl of the Stade Buffalo, the outdoor stadium at Montrouge
where they raced behind big motorcycles, Linart, the grat Belgian champion
that they called "the Sioux" for his profile, dropping his head to suck up
cherry brandy from a rubber tube that connected with a hot water bottle
under his racing shirt when he needed it toward the end as he increased
his savage speed, and the championships of France behind big motors of the
six-hundred-and-sixty-meter cement track of the Parc des Princes near Auteuil,
the wickedest track of all where we saw the great rider Ganay fall and heard
his skull crumple under the crash helmet as you crack an hard-boiled egg
against a stone to peel it on a picnic. I must write the strange world of
six-day races and the marvels of the road-racing in the mountains. French
is the only language it has ever been written in properly and the terms
are all French and that is what makes it hard to write. Mikes was right
about it, there is no need to bet. But that comes at another time in Paris.
from Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast, 1960
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